Another first ascent; looks like this year I'm specialising in left to right roof traverses!
The new route is at the Cheedale Cornice, a crag which has been exceptionally dry in 2018, and like the majority of my first ascents, this one is a link-up, and didn't involve placing a lower-off (!!??!!).
Bullheart links together Easy Rider (7c+/8a itself a right-hand variation on Jug Jockey) into Haydn's new route Dreadnot (8b+, a right-hand variation to Dreadnaught) to create a long and sustained lip traverse.
The new section after the Easy Rider traverse features small crimps and hidden footholds before joining Dreadnot at it's redpoint crux (a tough move to stand up into a small undercut and cross-over to a small crimpy slot) before exiting rightwards to the chains on Roof Warrior.
Video beta below, edited courtesy of a rainy saturday/a snotty nose courtesy of a work trip to London.
Bullheart, f8b/+ First Ascent from Ally Smith on Vimeo.
The route name refers to a friends husband who has been fighting a rare form of cancer for many years, and who's treatment involved having a diseased section of his heart replaced with bovine tissue. Mark "Bullheart" Fradgley is a total fucking legend and despite being given ominous prognosis' many times over, is still with us and regularly completes crazy cycling challenges; keep it up :-)
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